Hello again! I am already on the part four in the series about tripods! Lot’s to talk about!

To remind you: in my last article article I was talking about portability of a tripod: what makes a tripod portable and how you can carry it around. If you have missed it, you can read it here.

And today? All about height of the tripod!

Question: How tall should a tripod be?

How tall a tripod should be is a very important feature but is completely subjective as well. If you don’t mind bending, you don’t mind bending. It’s up to you.

You are concerned about three things:

• How tall is the tripod when standing (with the center column down).
• How tall is the tripod when standing with the central column fully up.
• How small can the tripod be when standing.

Let’s look at each separately:

Specification: Maximum / total height of a tripod with center column down

First, you are concerned about the maximum height of the tripod when standing with the center column down.

There are different heights ranging from the smallest around 17cm (6.7in), to the tallest at more than 2.5m (8.2′).

The sizes of tripods can be categorized into different levels:

• The compact level tripods are very light, but might be uncomfortable to use: you will need to stoop to use them. They are appropriate in particularly for macro work or low-level photography.
• The standard level sized tripods are popular because they are light and relatively small when folded. But they are only about 1.3m (4’’3’) tall.
• The eye level tripods are probably the best tripods to own. The height of them is about 1.5m (5”). They are the most comfortable to use.
• The over-head level is when a tripod is taller than you. Such tripods are mostly used in studios and at various events.

The general rule is that the taller the tripod, the more it weights and the more expensive it is. My condolences to all the tall people out there! ; )

When you think about the height of a tripod, you have to also consider:

• How tall the tripod really is depends not only on the tripod height, but also the height of a tripod head and a camera body. Add those two up in order to get a better picture of the height. For example: a tripod’s maximum height (with center column down) is 140cm (4.6′), height of a tripod head is 9cm (3.5in) and the height of your camera is (up to where the viewfinder is) 7cm (2.7in). Therefore the total height of a tripod is 156cm (5.1′). If you are about that height, you won’t have to bend in order to compose a shot. To conclude: whenever you are determining the maximum height of a tripod, always subtract the height of tripod head and your camera (which is usually about 15-25cm/6-10in).
• When thinking how tall you are and how tall the tripod should be, don’t forget that your eyes are not exactly on the top of the head, therefore deduct the forehead from your calculations.
• Especially DSLR cameras have a LCD screen at the top of the camera as well – if you are using it while shooting, you would want to see it when the camera is mounted on the tripod.
• You can increase the height of the tripod with the use of center column, but that is not recommended to consider when you are buying a tripod for reasons discussed in the second part of this article, when talking about the center column. Whatever height you choose, it needs to be comfortable for you to use, without extending the center column at all!

The above calculation assumes you are standing on the level ground. If you are shooting in nature the ground is rarely completely levelled and you will probably stand on a higher level than a tripod itself (at that times you would wish you had a higher tripod, even higher than you!).

When you are shooting on uneven terrain (i.e. mountains), it comes very helpful if the angle of the legs of a tripod can be adjusted separately (I talk about this in greater detail in my next article).

Another exception would be when you are shooting upwards (trees, air planes, birds, roofs). In this case you will also want a tripod to be as tall as possible for less bending.

The most comfortable height with no doubt is the eye level. Compared to standard level tripods are a bit bigger and heavier, which makes standard level tripods a nice compromise between comfort and price. However, if you are going to use tripod a lot, especially hiking where the ground is not equal, I recommend the eye level height. It is generally easier to bend a little bit than to be too short for the composition you want to take. You will never regret having one.

A quick advice here: It is true that when shooting from eye level you don’t have to bend. That is surely very comfortable! However, that will also make your photography boring (everything taken from the same level), so do change the angle of view as much as you can and sometimes get as low as possible!

Another suggestion: If you are shooting from the same place (especially for longer times), i.e. events, birds, don’t stand up all the time! Grab a chair!

In the end of the day, what tripod level is best for you will depend on what kind of photography you do! I have talked about how important it is to determine what features you really need in my first article about tripods.

Specification: Maximum height of the tripod with extended center column

Secondly, you are concerned about the maximum height of the tripod when standing with the center column extended.

Note that not all tripods actually have a center column.

Specification: Minimum height of the tripod

Thirdly, you are concerned how small the tripod can get when standing.

It varies drastically from tripods that can go down to only few centimetres, to the ones with the minimum height of up to 50cm.

This specification is important for anyone doing macro photography.

Other features that can get you closer to the ground:

• leg spread,
• removable or rotatable center column.

What is a center column or center post

Tripods can either have a centre column or not.

The standard usage for center columns is to extend the height of the tripod (upwards) for about 35cm (depending on the model) without any need for tripod leg readjustment.

They come in different sizes: short, medium and long.

So what do you need to consider about a center column:

• Its diameter. It will determine how strong the tube is. The wider the diameter, the heavier the center column is.
• The size of a collar (what eventually holds the center column). The wider and longer it is, the more stable the centre column.
• How do you move it.
• How do you lock it.

There are generally two mechanisms to move a centre column:

Rapid / lift type / smoothed centre column

It is perfect for outdoor photography. Advantages:

• quick,
• light,
• easy to use.

Disadvantages:

• Precision. You have to adjust the height with your hands.
• You need to give support to the camera with your hands while making the adjustments.

When you want to adjust the height, hold the camera with your hands, unlock the lock, position the camera in desired height by pulling center column up or down and then tighten the lock to secure the position.

There are two types of rapid center column locks (locking mechanisms) available:

• The first is a large adjustment ring around a center column. To adjust the height of a center column, spin the ring around until it slowly unblocks the column. Don’t forget to hold the camera (if attached) while doing that!
• The second locking mechanism are wing nuts or locking knobs. Again, you spin them in order to unblock the center column. Pay attention that the locks are tightened well when securing the center column!

Additionally, some tripods with a rapid centre column have a REVERSIBLE center column, which can be (as the name suggests) reversed downwards between the legs of the tripod.

This allows you to take a shot from top down for some macro shots, as well as ability to shoot from low angles that the minimum height of the tripod doesn’t allow you.

To use:

• First take off the hook (if there is one).
• Release the locks and remove the centre column.
• Put it back inside from the bottom.

Furthermore, there are also tripods with a rapid centre column that can be placed HORIZONTALLY.

This feature can be useful when:

• you want to look downwards at the subject (close up work, especially combined with wide spread legs of tripod); this is also a way to create a copystand out of a tripod as well (to read more about copystand, read my support accessories article);
• you want to lean over a wall or a river.

Problems can occur if you don’t use a steady tripod and too heavy camera. It can easily happen for tripod to lose balance and overturn. To prevent it, extend a center column only for few centimetres (and not all the way) and/or use weights to counter balance the weight of the camera.

It’s not over yet! There are also MODULAR centre columns which allow you to adjust the centre column at any desired angle.

Geared center column

It is popular with studio photographers or whenever precision is important.

Advantages:

• Precision is their greatest advantage. However, this depends on the quality of its design and construction! Avoid cheap tripods with geared centre column as their quality (and precision) can be questionable.
• There is no need for supporting the camera while adjusting the height – can be done with the use of only one hand.
• They are much steadier in holding heavier equipment.

Disadvantages:

• slower to use,
• heavier,
• built quality.

The height is adjusted by turning a crank on the side:

There are two types of geared center columns:

Usually, when the tripod is »geared«, it means it has rack & pinion styled gear system. To tighten the position, they can have additional locking adjustments rings.

There is also a worm (helical) style gear system. They are very secure in terms of slipping, as well as locking.

What to consider when doing macro work

Whenever you are doing macro work, it is best to have a shorter center column – simply, to not be restricted with its length when lowering tripod to the ground.

It is also very helpful if the centre post is REMOVABLE / DETACHABLE (this feature is also referred to as ground level set). Firstly,  it allows you to get closer to the ground by spreading tripod legs, and secondly, it can be removed, maybe even left at home if not needed and with that you save some weight.

There are also TWO-SECTION center columns or SPLIT center columns which can be taken on two to get closer to the ground.

Important thing to consider about center columns / posts

When I was writing about the maximum height of the tripod I was recommending not to include the height of centre column when determining the maximum height of a tripod.

Why?

Stability. It’s one of the center column weakest attributes and a much talked topic. The stability of the tripod comes from the fact that it is standing on three legs. And these legs are the reason why tripod is much steadier than a monopod (a one-legged tripod). So what has that to do with a center column?

Well, think about it: when you extend the center column, camera is supported only by one tube:  it is like attaching a monopod on top of a tripod. That makes the camera much less resistant to any vibrations and reduces the steadiness of the tripod as a whole as well, especially if you have extended the center column all the way. This is also a reason why some (especially professional) tripods don’t come with a centre column at all!

I would not extend the center column at all or only for few cm (if necessary), unless the tripod is of a very good quality or your camera is light.

Whenever you want to adjust the height of a tripod, it is much better to adjust the height of tripod legs than extending center column (unless for few centimetres).

I’m not saying not to use one. They are very useful: it is always good to have a backup of some height cm in case you would need them. They are also much quicker to use and adjusted than readjusting the tripod legs. The coins are the stability as well as some extra weight.

To be continued..

I hope you have enjoyed this article!

In my next articles about tripods I talk about another important feature: adaptability.

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